TIPS FOR SEPTEMBER (Southern Hemisphere)

Well, how was the winter weather we were blessed with?  A lot warmer than I remembered Canberra when I was younger.  The trees have enjoyed it also, and have made my August a litlle busier than usual.  Most of my deciduous trees have moved beyond “bud swell” now, just a few late bloomers, thankfully, as this has allowed me to get through most of my repotting as each tree has demanded it.  I am mindful, however, of the chance of any late cold snaps and subsequent frosts.  I have been placing any trees that I have repotted closer to the house and under cover.  Be aware of your trees spring foliage development when late frosts are eminent. Your best bet is to protect the tree from any frost damage until you are sure all frosts are done with this year. This should also be the case for newly potted trees. Give your newly potted trees protection from extremes of sun, wind, and frosts.

It is probably an opportune time to talk about spring pruning of new growth. In order to create compact and full pads of reduced size foliage it is necessary to understand how your tree grows. Most trees when cut will create new growth from the nearest remaining node, generally two or more new shoots will be created. Allow these to grow to an appropriate length and then cut these as well and they will create another two or more shoots. You can see that this will begin to create denser foliage. What is also happening is that the nodes are getting closer together, thus creating more area of foliage, this will create smaller foliage over time as the foliage has so many nodes to come from.

The pruning of different variety of trees will differ according to the way the tree grows, as well as the style that you are trying to achieve. Most junipers, for instance will be pruned by pinching new growth with the soft pads of your fingers, to avoid browning off of cut foliage. Pines are a little more technical, they require many steps in order to create smaller denser foliage. Spring pruning of pines is primarily candle snapping as the new needles begin to unfold on your elongated candles. Japanese maples prefer new growth to be pinched out or cut very early, whereas trident maples prefer a couple of nodes growth before cutting back to an appropriate length. If you are unsure about any pruning methods of the various trees, feel free to come to the nursery for a chat.

Most of you should be well under way with your repotting of deciduous trees. Try to catch them before the foliage develops too far, ideal is at bud swell. Junipers, conifers, and broad  leafed evergreens are next, once again  wait for signs of the tree coming out of dormancy.

With all of this fleshy new growth appearing on our trees, you may also find pests that enjoy feasting on this growth.  Be aware that most trees moving into growth will be susceptible to one pest or more.  Many problems can be treated at this time of year with either confidor or pest oil, but it is wise to be sure of the pest before applying any pesticide.  There are many natural alternatives to commercial pesticides, the internet will be a great source of alternative remedies.

ledanta@grapevine.com.au
http://www.ledanta-bonsai.com.au/